Wednesday, October 26, 2005

☞◈ - ◈☜

At the moment I feel very close to closing down the infamous project in Coire Lagan, deemed impossible by all who have stood before it. The photo above [itself never before released], which will be the cd-cover, is of moving through the 5th crux, about v15, away from the crux of It's Over, into Paper Tiger. To give you an idea of how hard this whole sequence is, I've thrown up more than once, trying to do it, dislocated 2 fingers & torn a muscle group on the inside of my ribcage beside my left lung... Not so long ago, it came down to being only 4 moves away from success before clattering off...v12 into v14 into v13, if you like numbers, with... the link spaces ungradable...do the maths yourself...it's superstylin'..even if the hairstyle isn't.

The film, entitled A Simple Stone, is due, January, & it's release date is dependant on when I complete the line in the photo above, weather, funds, accessability etc, as the main focus is around this. Twenty five copies will be made & distributed amongst the people who matter in climbing. They already know who they are. The same applies for the An-t' Suil sport movie due in February 2006. The world wide web & it's attitude can go suck it's own nuts for all I care. Same for the mags, I will actively make sure it doesn't get in.

In addition...Ive turned down several 'who is' type interviews about my climbing in the past, from Planet Fear on home soil, too wierd Spanish mags & various other high octane media experts...I guess Dave Flanagan wins then. He gets to ask all the right questions for The Short Span interview. I get to keep bouldering for all of us... in the jungle where it belongs. Is this the best kind of winning & losing? I've never had a sense of it.. Grab a seat...turn off the wife...both are coming soon..coins in a roof as far as watching goes, different in application.

Good luck in Fontainebleau, Monsieur Flanagan

A still from the first 60 seconds of the movie intro

☞◈ - ◈☜

 
posted by ※Sgian Dubh ※ at 3:49 PM | 3 comments
Thursday, October 20, 2005
Aye as usual, I'm away doing the only thing that's truely important in climbing - actually going climbing. Rubbing noses with the rock as ever, is where it's at - talking about it after, is merely a wheelchair for the brain. First up for the approaching weekend, a main course of Torridon tussling, washed down with a Glen Croe aperitif & a buttie of Reiff soloing on the way home. Torridon will be raging crimps, slopes, aretes & roofs - as usual. My focus is on a few stonking unclimbed lines, & opening up the Neolith - a mad cave roof arena. Next weeks forecast of rain will test if it stays perma-dry, how greasy it becomes in the damp & wether if in anyway, it adopts similar scenarios as the infamous condition of p.d.h.d - Pongo dribbling hold disease... Pat, Finn & myself have recently been busy blethering about a few great soaring unclimbed Clisham gullies this winter...ooerr..somethings afoot. News of anything substantial when i get back...
Update 26 Oct: rain stopped any serious play as predicted. The Neolith cave does indeed seep towrds its outer third. Definately funny in the wet. A return trip is on the cards after next weeks Lewis trip. Im sure I must be wearing a tram-line in that route north...
욎 - 욎
 
posted by ※Sgian Dubh ※ at 10:03 AM | 0 comments
Saturday, October 15, 2005
And now for something completely dangerous - a man with 5 chalk bags...nope, actually, I've just managed to climb the huge hanging shard of black gneiss wedged solidly between Grip Crisis rh & the improbable roof. What a beast! A jump start from steep sea walls above boulders up into a rack of slopers then the 30ft shard direct with a furious struggle above the nastiest deckout. This is an awesome line I wierdly couldn't muster the nerve for last year. Dave MacLeod will know the meteoric insertion I'm on about, all to well. Again, it's one of those lines that invades your dreams at night & calls to you through the day. It dances in vicious storms, circling as if a wild banshee above prospecting climbers, willing them into a spiral of uncertain outcome & soul deluge. The name alines it perfectly, into a high v-grade or a bold lead; & thrown to the wind like a fist of sand, it scatters all over the ascent, drowning itself inside a torrent of uncontrived, raging movement. The black & white photos are stonking....

We're heading further South later, to a new location not far from Traigh na Berigh with independant beach super size boulders, but first, a stomp across the Lewis moorland with the dug & the silence...maybe a bit of Natasha Atlas on the mp3 gadget.
For those of you who don't generally climb v9 [or v13 for that matter] there are some excellent mantel problems, 5 font 6 -7 s & one of the best Font 7bs ever into the diamond shaped feature & a wacky traverse - all in the same area. That's a quality shopping trip then!
 
posted by ※Sgian Dubh ※ at 3:07 PM | 0 comments
Saturday, October 08, 2005
Christy Moore - Smoke & Strong Whisky
▩1] Welcome To The Cabaret
▩2] Fairytale Of New York
▩3] Scapegoats
▩4] Aisling
▩5] Burning Times
▩6] Smoke & Strong Whiskey
▩7] Whacker Humphries
▩8] Blackjack County Chains
▩9] Green Island
▩10] Encore
'Inside this clay jug are canyons & pine mountains,& the makers of canyons & pine mountains...All seven oceans are inside, & hundreds of millions of stars. The acid that tests gold is there & the one who judges jewels, & the music from the strings that no one touches, & the source of all water. If you want the truth, I will tell you the truth; Friend, listen: The God whom I love - is inside these, the trace elements.
Kabir [1398-1518]
Kosketa minuaälä käsilläsivaan niin että tunnen sinut, kosketa minuaälä käsilläsimutta sielussasi
▩ ▩ ▩
 
posted by ※Sgian Dubh ※ at 2:57 PM | 0 comments
Monday, October 03, 2005
My tattered old original guidebook, Fontainbleau, escalades et randomées, circa 1986 . suggests the following, with additional suggestions by myself..

ED+ - Extremely difficult + [black-white]
Anything between ⓥ13 & ⓥ16

TD - Technically Difficult [red]
Anything between ⓥ10 & ⓥ12

H- Hard [blue]
Anything between ⓥ6 & ⓥ9

M - Moderate [yellow]
Anything between ⓥ2 & ⓥ5

E - Easy [white]
Anything from ⓥ0 & up
To my mind, ED+, ED, TD, H & E are all bouldering needs. I mean, Hard...errr, well it's hard. Extremely Difficult, its exactly what it says on the tin...& so on. Less numbers, more movement. If you can't climb it, climb something else....If your a mid range bouderer you still get to say you climb hard aye so no ego issues to cry about as well..bingo! A bit of humour anyway..
what's black & white & red all over?
⊆ⓥ⊇
 
posted by ※Sgian Dubh ※ at 2:23 PM | 1 comments
Sunday, October 02, 2005
Since there's been a mini Swedish invasion in the new shout box gadget, I feel it's only fair that I should retort.

Tjo Alex...lyssnar Pigge bror...när man talar om trollen
Jag är en fluga , en spyfluga . Det är svårt att vara fluga när man blir upptäckt av fåglar spindlar och människor med flugsmäckor.
Vi tar en titt i mitt liv.
Jag sitter under en säng. aaaaaah! En katt har fått syn på mig! Jag flyger iväg vidare in i garderoben genom nyckelhålet och vidare in i en rock ärm. Jag sätter mig på en dammtuss och tvättar mig. Efter tio minuters intensivt tvättande flyger jag totalt omedvetet in i ett spindelnät. Jag trodde att min sista stund var kommen. Men det började skaka. Någon tar på sig rocken. Jag kommer loss från nätet och flög iväg.Jag var fri! Jag flyger mot köket för att hitta mat. Jag får syn på ett köttstycke! Livets höjdpunkt är nära. Jag landar på det och börjar äta ut en grotta i det.
Efter fem dagar är jag färdig. Mitt hus är alltså färdigt. Jag går ut för att titta på utsikten, men ser bara en vit vägg. Det är kallt. Jag anar det värsta, ett kylskåp! Jag är innstängd i ett kylskåp!
Sju dagar senare har jag lätta köldskador. Men räddningen är nära. Någon öpnar kylskåpet och jag flyger ut. Jag flyger vidare ut i hallen. Jag tänker att jag kanske skulle behöva bli starkare. jag flyger in i syskåpet och hämtar två lagom stora knappar och en nål. Jag fäster en knapp i vardera ände, och min skivstång är färdig. Jag börjar lyfta den upp,ner,upp,ner,upp,ner,upp,ner. Nu är jag stark nog att genomföra styrketestet ”klockan”. Det går ut på att stoppa Big Bell = vägg klockan i tv-rummet.
Jag flyger iväg mot tv-rummet och landar på sekundvisaren. Jag flyger ner på urtavlan och väntar på den för att stoppa den med bara sugkopparna! Där, direct kroppskontakt. Urhagiiiiiiiiiiiiihhjafgahurnakaslahulfanitu!!!Ja! Jag höll stilla seckundvisaren, i 1,000001 seckunder! Hurra! -HA,HA,HA,HA,HA,HA,HA! NU HAR JAG DIG!

Skål grön terrorist jägare...du jag kan lär^^
Bevarar den rasa...alltid, always maintain the rage - orubblig grotta klättring och hårda strider - aldrig titta ned mig vän !
kingmaker
㉦ - ㉦ - ㉦
 
posted by ※Sgian Dubh ※ at 1:38 PM | 2 comments