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At the moment I feel very close to closing down the infamous project in Coire Lagan, deemed impossible by all who have stood before it. The photo above [itself never before released], which will be the cd-cover, is of moving through the 5th crux, about v15, away from the crux of It's Over, into Paper Tiger. To give you an idea of how hard this whole sequence is, I've thrown up more than once, trying to do it, dislocated 2 fingers & torn a muscle group on the inside of my ribcage beside my left lung... Not so long ago, it came down to being only 4 moves away from success before clattering off...v12 into v14 into v13, if you like numbers, with... the link spaces ungradable...do the maths yourself...it's superstylin'..even if the hairstyle isn't.
The film, entitled A Simple Stone, is due, January, & it's release date is dependant on when I complete the line in the photo above, weather, funds, accessability etc, as the main focus is around this. Twenty five copies will be made & distributed amongst the people who matter in climbing. They already know who they are. The same applies for the An-t' Suil sport movie due in February 2006. The world wide web & it's attitude can go suck it's own nuts for all I care. Same for the mags, I will actively make sure it doesn't get in.
In addition...Ive turned down several 'who is' type interviews about my climbing in the past, from Planet Fear on home soil, too wierd Spanish mags & various other high octane media experts...I guess Dave Flanagan wins then. He gets to ask all the right questions for The Short Span interview. I get to keep bouldering for all of us... in the jungle where it belongs. Is this the best kind of winning & losing? I've never had a sense of it.. Grab a seat...turn off the wife...both are coming soon..coins in a roof as far as watching goes, different in application.
Good luck in Fontainebleau, Monsieur Flanagan
A still from the first 60 seconds of the movie intro
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