Tuesday, October 10, 2006

Ancient harbour rings, clattering trawlers, & ropes & marker bouys & mistral gannets, nets & weeds & clouds & things that move in rings, like light...I'll be down there...resting days before the next climb, visualizing the redpoint sequence, rigging the prawner with Fraser, gaff-cutter-rigged that one is...gaff-cutter-rigged; & I've got one eye on the Cuillin - one hand on the winch. Hot village coffee in chipped enamel mugs, sore on healing gabbro scars, a grinding knee, kids turning shells & shrieks on the mud slithering tide, shadowed by dripping joists. Packing trays, hose pipes & boning knives. Extended sessions of street blether, leaves drafted along guttered yellow lines, free mackerel, lost change in drains & the pie shop ovens on the breeze. There is a feeling of snow in the air...a cows knee from old Doni Matheson for they dug & using his cleaver as an expression of full-stop, he extends to me in Gaelic, the whole historical village heyday, & his youth in hard shoes, & I'm hurried along inside great vivacious swirls of laughing ghosts...of herring port clammer, salmon fishery finery & bustle, swept into my grandfathers days, when women had beards & men kept worms on Iniseer...sump oil for the soul boy. Sump oil for the soul.

We were taunting Kenny from the wheelhouse like. You've a long shadow boy, for such a short fella..are ye sure you're no wearing they wrong one today Ken? He stalled as if he had been driving an invisible wagon & looked back at us on the deck, examining his shadow as he spoke. Wha's wrang wi ma shadow lads? Well it's no that it's no wrang, it's just 18ft tall, mighty black n' sleek, & athletic looking aye...more an African warrior type o' chappie than a Sgitheanach. Aaaaye...well, it's they Jag-u-Are of shadows, all fast & so good lookin', I can chase masel faster than yooz can carry me there boy. His retort sounded almost triumphant. Well that's the problem there Ken, if ye get stapped by they police wi that shadow on ye they'll ken it's no yer own. He looked up & down his shadow again, right hand thoughtfully on his chin, left hand trying to go to the bar on it's own...Are the mainland police on they island?!? Aye...well...a cannea find they buttons & I'm no taking it aff in public...He paused motionless & silent on the harbour for a bit. Can ye tell easy it's no my own shadow Tata, does it show obvious like? Aye Ken, ye normal shadow is more shorter than this one, pale blue & they shape of a Woodbine...

With the Hut of Shadows beyond the hunter mast - you roll with an eye on the cave & the straits & if you're balanced & fast on your feet, you can run a jump reverse somersault clean off the highest yard-arm into the winter sea, clear over double-rafted trawlers below. It's an HSD - Health & Safety Dismount aye....well ok it's no a HSD but it's hell-of-a quicker, just don't take thee paint pot & spanners as well, cuase they clatter a bit on touchdown.

It went on for a while, & the winter light does great things for small men on the drink, & tall Struan girls on the shop alike. That's the harbour aye, & every year I'll attempt the winter wall sideways in one go for them, & every year they'll take bets & every year I'll end up cold & wet & they'll end up wealthy & laughing, but that's what goes on, inside the outside, where the huddle huddles, beyond the small world of big grades. I can't always be over at the Raasay climbing barn, training F9a crux circuits, moulding new replica holds while rain taps corrugate roof paradiddle to Raidió na Gaeltachta, & when I can't; I always seem to get the tallest masts to solo. Up there, you can feel the hips of the vessel, it's centre of movement & they always hand me that one, becuase it's grained into my character, to tilt when I should yield...bring a new storm. I took a wander after, with the wee digi thing, to find traces of those silent essential elements, stampeded over by the blind & bickering, the go fasters, the V & E & Font grade police, the bottomless wailers who use drilled gabbro holes for silver teeth, as trumpets to better elevate their own sound...& thus we are here at this evenings blog, a few photographs wealthier. The dog asleep, chin on my autumnal woolly feet, full bellied, safe on the slow tide & for the briefest moment, nobody dies alone, nothing is broken or put out at sea.

The 2007 Coire boulder & sport projects, the brazen Orkney lines with MacGill-Fhinnein, & with Evolv's help onside, won't so much be climbing, as organized bare knuckle fighting. So much like any year then, but with a label stuck on ma arse, which does nothing important.

۝ Is math an sgàthan sùil caraide ۝

 
posted by ※Sgian Dubh ※ at 9:40 PM | 2 comments
Sunday, October 08, 2006
Dogs of paw & Cuillin steep, wild of life & unquiet sleep...guardian of they boggy roll, & things in tins & scents in soil. Ragged Quasar, base camp brawler...fireside farter, toothy yawner...To share one's days with a doss-bag fidget, bothy boss, & hairy midget...
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Oh...I won't recite the whole thing, we made it up on a trundling jolly back to the village, chased under a wild sky & airborne autumn leaves beyond the black Coire. It's here, scribbled onto a torn flag of note-paper, spattered with sump oil. Another line tamed, an awesome holdless friction puzzle of foot stompin' full acrobatic bhoona & a classy sandbag at V11'ish, for the anal accountants...Yet again, a tired dug, swift high thief of the comfiest suburban niches & snarling cushion herder. To look at the boy gone sparko, you'd think he'd been redpointing all day while I ate grass & pished on rocks. I guess it must be a strain being black & white all your life, but at least I don't have to desaturate him when I'm plooterin' with the monochromatic digi tools aye...
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posted by ※Sgian Dubh ※ at 8:32 PM | 2 comments
Thursday, October 05, 2006
Andy Kirkpatrick has agreed to give his Beyond Extremes lecture to they hackit Invershnecky crowds up there in them bahookie freezers at the following venue & time:

The Drummond Suite
Thistle Hotel
Inverness
Thursday 12th October - 7.30pm

Tickets are £6 on the door & places can be reserved by contacting bobt33@hotmail.com & giving him the names of all those you wish to book into the talk. Note that Bob is saying that no tickets will be sent out, but names & ticket reserves will be held in waiting at the venue doors.
Once all expenses have been covered any profit from this lecture will be donated to the local Mountain Rescue Teams. There is, & has been for some time, a permament link to Andy & his excellent Psycho-Vertical web blethering on the righthand side of this blog. Andy is a highly entertaining speaker & solo climber extraordinaire. Gifted in the art of that finest of flat ground pursuits the organized blether, he delivers a unique insight into his own vertical climbing world. He certainly has the skills of the mountain writer alive in his soul, & translates the curving epics of an ordinary struggle beyond grades with clarity & passion. Where a good few others on the lecture circuit have become anally banal, number invested & grippingly narcoleptic in their approach, Andy continues to translate the rage inside a life threatening comedy of endless situations we can all identify with & repeatedly, with calculated idiocy, place ourselves on the crux of. Get yourself along.

What’s the toilet etiquette when you’re dangling from a cliff edge? And what if the only place to go is on someone else’s distant head? And what’s all this got to do with Willy Wonka’s chocolate river?

Original photo mono-chroming & depth render by S K Y E B L O C

 
posted by ※Sgian Dubh ※ at 3:23 PM | 1 comments