Sunday, March 27, 2005
The Tarbet Stanes are up for a better description. Heres the reasons for the names. I've got John & Sandra to thank for this. We had a great a conversation over a few beers in Glasgow about why we dress our boulders or newly climbed lines in the names we do. So many of the Scottish players have moved through Tarbet, journeying to Traigh na Berigh or The Butt, & sat in Tarbet bars waiting to travel. These stanes are an old local secret. Things change, it's time to let them run free. Enjoy.
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Holly-Would, V4: My pals daughter was in Tarbet one afternoon & decided she could do this arete. Aye ok, who am I to argue, she's 9 with a 90yr old head. We yomped up the field together while her father took a fishermans discussion [he's a man for all seasons]. I'd never really looked at the line but since she'd climbed the field with me & decided it was her route, I spotted her. She cranked hardcore, her enthusiasm, second to nothing. 20 minutes passed &, with her permission, I dutifully pulled on & climbed it. She was shrieking when it went, & dancing in circles. We danced together back into the village [& kicked a sheep]. She is Little Miss Hollywood, she loves her brightly coloured plastic bling & is convinced she will be a film star & a shepherd at the same time. How she will do both is beyond me, but that's a childs right, to dream beyond the confines of time & practical equations. For all her girly free island glamour, her flowered dress, leggings & boots, could she do the arete? Not quite...but Holly-Would...& needless to say, Holly will one day.
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God Loves a Heathen, V10-11. The twin cracks of Finore, V9 foreground.
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Finore, V9: It's an Irish thing. Look up Moving Hearts, The Storm on Google. Although, there's a colourful depth to it, such is Gaelic waffle. An féidir leat Béarla a labhairt?
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God Loves A Heathen, V10-11: Politics & Religion. When we boulder in free movement right next to an old institution of faith there is a question. Does god love me cause I'm on the hillside climbing, or dislike me cause I walked passed a place of worship to my own alter. Do I care? I have many reasons for this name, being somewhat agnostic & unable to suffer the wars that religion believes it heals. Paranoiac, self-indulgent religious beliefs have seperated humanity in the bigger picture more than it has brought races together. I think if God was the white bearded man we all grew up imagining, he'd be sitting on top of the boulder in the sunlight, laughing while we climb, not hiding in the dimly lit dust of an aging decadent pebble-dashed worship hall. Climbing is a seperate issue - breath out. The haven of God isn't judged in pebble-dash or glamour. These stones are my church, my Nirvana & sometimes, my Sunyata. This is where I kneel, like you. If this makes me a heathen, or any man beside me, so be it.
'What you making there God?' [he's on top of the boulder like.]
'Ummm..just a couple of stars, pretty ain't they..'
'Aye, not bad God, not bad at all.........wierdo.'
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Make Hay While The Sun Shines.
Make Hay While The Sun Shines, V11: When you stand on these boulders & scan your surroundings the phrase & it's wisdom, becomes self explanitory. The deep mountain grass, the sunlight, the gray thunderous fractured mountains reminiscent of Connemara, the loch stretching out to the Uists & Skye, there's a slight wind, a scent of life within the wheel, Herring Gulls gliding on mistral updrafts, occasional laughter echoing out of the village, fishing boats groaning back across The Minch to harbour, Listers on full thump & throttle. Why wouldn't you make hay while the sun shines..This life isn't a rehersal. Forget bills, numbers, petrol costs & just climb, let your head spin, kick the soul, be kind to those around you, fart in the faces of those who are not kind to you, & pull down hard as you can, until the planet starts to bend.
Friend what is it that you seek. What is it that you try to find. Someday I hope you realize, It shined in you all the time. Hills to climb, sights to see, seas to cross, friends to make, hands to shake, the world is yours. Foods to taste, sounds to hear, love to feel, Seeds to sew, things to know, fish to reel, space to quiz, stones to lift, life's a gift. What d'ya mean, I want more...
- Maxi Jazz 2004-
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Kingdom Come, V4: It's a most bodacious lick by World Party & Karl Wallinger on the Bang! album. When you hear it you should be dancing like a loony in the field. If you're not...you should possibly seek help. Or maybe I should..
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Innse Gall, V2: Here's the full name: Fàilte gu Feis Cheilteach Innse Gall
The island sea-taxi - The Innse Gall arete
www.hebceltfest.com/
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The 'Dark Heart - Within A Mile Of Home' project: Climb the Heathen then the lower edges of Finore & strike at the black heart beyond & it's surrounding blankness. This is the cold water climb of the stanes. The dog that bites you without provocation, the icy burn & the improbable momement. Thanks to Chubby for driving the Crofters lorry so furiously through Harris & Lewis & for being a star, day to day. How the feck did we get back to Dell that night from Cros? I sat in the ditch like a man with learning difficulties. I sit at the bottom of this line with the same head on. Everytime the sea-taxi pulls in I look onto the hill at these boulders just like the first year they were found. Everytime I leave for Skye on the sunny deck, they wave me off, knowing the Dark Heart remains undefeated. We're always Within A Mile Of Home, a living narrative, slave to our own visions - Feckin qaurtzite..crowns can be knocked off you know..
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And that's the Tarbet Ferry Boulders.
In the immortal words of Holly to some fella crossing back to Skye on the sea-taxi: 'Yeah he's climbed V15 in both countries, he's the best climber in the world'
Eh?
 
posted by ※Sgian Dubh ※ at 5:08 PM | 0 comments
World Party - Goodbye Jumbo

Is It Too Late? 4:24
Way Down Now 3:49
When The Rainbow Comes 4:58
Put The Message In The Box 4:16
Ain't Gonna Come Till I'm Ready 5:05
And I Fell Back Alone 3:57
Take It Up 4:37
God On My Side 4:14
Show Me To The Top 5:15
Love STreet 4:21
Sweet Soul Dream 4:39
Thankyou World 3:47
 
posted by ※Sgian Dubh ※ at 3:39 PM | 0 comments
Friday, March 25, 2005
Aye, these are them, training themselves up on nail edge slopers, forcing my back to take the torque through the project roof at Bac, Lewis...peace at last. Six weeks of rain, shite TV & hobbling around the Co-op is more than to much, as is finding yourself demoted to teaboy status by the climbing fraternity. Well no more, heres to dancing in rainstorms, pulling down hard, aching muscles, hot baths, sore hands, seasalt on the lips, heel hooks, chalk on the tips, blood on the stone, long beautiful days, crisp clear mornings, razorback friction, immaculate waves & heaps of egg mayo butties. See you in the Highland & Island jumbles.
The hands that do dishes...& the odd gnarly crimp here & there aye
Righty, sofa-bed time. An early start back to Bac waits in the morning for some more bouldering & I'm going in, mad as a lorry. A simple glitterball aye, but oh how it shines for those whose eyes can see. What could you possibly want with silver & gold wrapped in silk, when this wooden bowl holds all the nourishment of the souls own longing for itself.
The newly climbed roof of Bac To Bac, V9
Oidhche mhath
 
posted by ※Sgian Dubh ※ at 2:21 AM | 1 comments
Sunday, March 20, 2005
A wee thing about the art of falling off with no grace whatsoever...
The photo below was taken as I came off during a big lunge for a foreground hold in the roof, trying to link-up Trace Element RH. I caught it, but needless to say, didn't hold it & started swinging back down, way out of control, trying to catch something to slow my speedy clattering descent into the stones. The deckout speaks for itself. This is pretty much on the moment of impact...sare wan. Stone is harder than bone & heads, legs & bare backs bleed well.
Off of Trace Element - no mat below!!
Climbing like this is inherently full of personal risk, but I often choose to do it this way. I don't sue the local crofter whos land is nearby, nor do I go up against the Islands authorities becuase I injure myself through my own actions, I take full responsibility for them. My point is highlighted in a recent thread on Scottish Climbs, about Reuben & Alien Rock being sued for someone elses ineptness, & there seems to be a strange mentality creeping into climbing. This will happen more as climbing & bouldering becomes widely accessable to the masses. People who really should stick to wearing high heels, shopping & playing out their lives on computor games can now walk into a climbing wall, injure themselves, & it's everyone elses fault. The same is true in the mountains when you look at the annual Mountain Rescue Reports & the growing amount of truly ridiculous & avoidable call-outs in comparrison to say, the '60's, which grow steadily each year. Joe Punter can stroll into an outdoor shop of his choosing, buy a load of North Face gear & attempt the Cullin in a winter blizzard. Mr Punter can also freely purchase climbing gear in the same way & take himself into a climbing centre, which works on trust when he signs the disclaimer & asks him if 'he's competent at belaying' ecetera.
You can buy a degree on the internet these days & that's the problem, in the speedy have it all now world, fewer & fewer people care about learning their 2x-table, fewer & fewer people have the humilty to accept they are unskilled at something & start a path of true learning from first base; each wanting to be an immediate Einstien without the work & the journey, in which that experience & it's unwritten detailed intimacies teaches them. Everything is so much more freely available in todays society & theres a short-cut into most avenues of living, but these short-cuts people are taking will ultimately kill them. In attempting to bypass years of experience, years of training & doggedly learned abiltity, they are relying more & more on governing bodies, rules, insurance & tepid guidlines rather than practical ability & realistic self-awarness, be that, individually or in a supervisory capacity over children. This to my mind places climbing & bouldering in a dangerous mythical place, purporting it to be, risk free, pre-packaged excitement of a Centre-Parks type genre, where nobody gets a smashed thigh & pelvis, tendons never snap suddenly & nobody dies violently on a sunny day in a remote part of the country. It's no wonder the uneducated new wave, scream 'law suit!' when they stub a toe. Reading the weather, belay safety, trad-leading, learning to place yourself in a dropzone when bouldering [learning to fall] & mountain awarness, will become brushed aside, GPS instrumentation replacing map & compass skills, common sense replaced by cleverly recited, but fully mis-understood climbing whizz & bang, & it all adds up to a pretty poor future outlook.
None of these climbing, mountaineering, bouldering skills come ready to use in the pocket of a new TNF jacket. Nor do they mystically appear like a Genie from the hologram of a Visa card. Sorry to disappoint those who believed they did. I think the average Saturday climber needs to re-assess their personal motivations & awareness's within climbing & bouldering within what for us, is a lifestyle, not a pastime. Bolts fail, holds fail, ropes fail, crimps fail, placements fail, & occasionally even quickdraws, but none of these fail us as much as our own human abilities. Nor do boulders care where we go or on whom, or how, we land when we leave their holds-into the open air. In the proccess of climbing Trace Element RH, I had to learn it from new, I didn't go in knowing everything & just climb it, nor should a novice at an indoor wall assume they are safe beyond their own ability or unquestionable in their understanding. God help us if these people ever go trad-leading or bouldering in the wilds & break their backs. I fear it will tie the Highland authorities up in years of court appearances & law suits. Have some self-accountabilty & responsibilty for your own actions. I fell out of bed the other week, so that must be Alien Rocks fault as well, I mean, Chaos Theory can prove it....
Then you get it right...then you are beefcake.
 
posted by ※Sgian Dubh ※ at 4:31 PM | 0 comments
Wednesday, March 09, 2005
Chan e áilleachd cruth t' aodainn,
áilleachd cruth t' aodainn,
áilleachd mo dhallabhrat
ged a dh'fhalbh i thar smaointean,
ach áilleachdan anama
bha dealbhach nad aodamn
áilleachd an spoiraid,
smior cridhe mo ghaoil-sa...
na mo dhiech bliadhna saothrach
riamh cha d' fhuair mi dán air faodial cho suaimhneach
cho álainn fosgailte ri t' aodann...
na mo dhiech bliadhna saothrach...
The Clay Jug
'Inside this clay jug are canyons & pine mountains,& the makers of canyons & pine mountains...All seven oceans are inside, & hundreds of millions of stars. The acid that tests gold is there & the one who judges jewels, & the music from the strings that no one touches, & the source of all water. If you want the truth, I will tell you the truth; Friend, listen: The God whom I love - is inside.'
Kabir [1398-1518]
 
posted by ※Sgian Dubh ※ at 9:54 PM | 0 comments
Tuesday, March 08, 2005
Time for a bit of Dylan...aha Nashville Skyline! That'll do nicely...superb. Sing it up Bob! [this should wind the neighbours up at high volume, windows wide. Wheres ma dancin' dungarees & banjo]
The back injury update is good which, in turn, is as good for me as it is for you; 'cause I'm getting as bored of writing about it, just as you are probably about to suicide, from having to read about it so much.
Pulling on the shelter roof up in the Kilta jumble is possible, although not for long, but at least my feet can take more climbing tension, so there's a step forward. Crunching these big pink pills & letting Meridth [remember her?] jump all over my back with her Kango-Hammer knuckles, has done the trick in pushing out the inflammation & loosening the fusion. I should be fit enough to finish the stone wall job soon as well [the other frustration], 2 weeks of which, I've had to give away to a trusty local lad. Nowhere near pulling down hard yet, but it's on the way. I've managed a repeat of John Watsons new Gift Egg at V3 & his excellent Pathfinder also at V3 to confirm the grades & quality before having to pack it all in again from over twisting. That bloody sloper man!
What I have enjoyed about this momentary disability, is that alot of lower grade bouldering has become my push-limit, stuff I would normally breeze without a care, or simply ignore, has in itself, become a case of all out burly fighting & gritting of teeth. It's a good humbling experience in that sense, to be able to enjoy classic grades & moves at the fighting edge once again, to really feel V3. I was grinning to myself walking home from Kilta at the thought of V8....ooo, that's hard, maybe one day if I train loads. In that sense of injury, I'm quite enjoy it all, the new daily personal markers, forcing myself to be strong enough for the big Coire link-up & other stuff, sitting in the hurly field stretching, while the dog tries to murder Herring Gulls with a comical lack of success; performing deadhangs from my axes, touching my toes again, from standing up, & doing 1-2-3 on the woody for pulling instead of 1-5-9, setting myself daily goals, in an attempt to get back home. The voice is back...That's it, put the foot forward, now get the next hold...good job, now get to the next one, that'll do for today, rest...no don't rest!, get up, keep moving! the voice says. Here it comes, V2...V4...V6...V8...slowly now, concentrate. Woohoo..I'm a mini Joe Simpson!

'Pain had long since lost it's battle. I accepted that I was to slap & thrutch again. Kilta beckoned insistently; a sandstone hole calling me, jug-free, lost in slime, like Lagan...'
Touching The Cloth - Oiled Samson

These are my...Hands That Do Dishes
 
posted by ※Sgian Dubh ※ at 3:34 PM | 0 comments
Saturday, March 05, 2005
The Sea Peanut is a classy free-standing coastal boulder, perched on a stone plinth away from the worst of the tides, across from a sandy Port beach in the wilds & far Northern reaches of the Outer Hebrides.

James Sutton is the first, aside from myself to make a visit to it & add some new bouldering. I was suprised as there can't be much more room for any more now. My two steep traverses on here both climb from sit-starts on the seaward nose. James has added three up problems to the main face.
Fear of Drowning - V4 - Hiding From God -V3 & Sunday Surgery -V3
Brilliant stuff that man. Now future visiting boulderers can take official tours sideways or up & down. Thats 6 lines on a peanut all in, with maybe one more to go! Not bad for such a wee thing that survived unbruised through the recent winter hurricanes. Long live the Sea Peanut. Yaay!

Tracking along Distant Early Warning V9 way - The Sea Peanut

 
posted by ※Sgian Dubh ※ at 3:25 PM | 0 comments
Friday, March 04, 2005

I rejoice in the Awakening of the Buddhas,
& also, in the spiritual levels of their signs
With folded hands, I beseech the Buddhas of all directions
To shine the light of Dharma, for all bewildered,
In the gloom of misery.
With folded hands, I beseech all the Buddhas,
Who wish to pass away,
To please remain, for countless aeons,
& not to leave, the world in darkness

My foes will become nothing
My friends will become nothing,
I too, will become nothing
Likewise, all will become nothing.

Just like a dream experience,
Whatever things I enjoy
Will become a memory
Whatever is passed, may not be seen again.

I will liberate those, not liberated
I will release those, not released
I will relieve those, unrelieved
& set all living beings, in Nirvana

The Buddhas neither wash ill deeds away with water
Nor remove beings sufferings, with their hands
Nor transfer their realizations to others.
Beings are released through the teachings of truth,
The final reality.
Thus by the virtue that has collected, through all that I have done
May the pain of every living creature
Be completely cleared away.

May I be the protector to all those without protection,
May I be the doctor & the medicine,
& may I be the nurse,
For all sick beings in the world,
until everyone is healed.

May I be a bridge, a boat, a ship, For all who wish to cross the water.

Kundun - [Tenzin Gyatso] - The 14th Dalai Lama -

If you do only one more thing of beauty in this life, watch this movie. Watch it, with your heart open & the phone off the hook. If the It's Over big link-up ever finds itself completed by my hand, it will be dressed in the one word upon which this treasure is hinged, Kundun...It's just that special, &, what a wonderfully simplistic parodox it would be to name an ugly, demonic & cruel fight-of-a-line, after a man whos life & purpose is to mirror the exact opposite & spread compassion through gentleness. A simple monk who helps all he can to keep the world in peacefull existance. Maybe it will give back some abstract level of beauty & simplicity to that dark, complex & forboding stone. It has afterall, already inspired the name Extradition. This is the dvd so often carried in the slip-pocket of my rucksac, with my scarred & battered climbing kit - just in case...I think he'd be impressed by it all, not least, by our tenacious hanging of such improbable holds & angles. As the Lord Chamberlain says in the film 'He is a modern man. Just like he was the last time'....

'If the world had the ears of an elephant & the mouth of a mouse, It would hear with a greatness of clarity, the sound of it's own joy; And talk less endlessly about the pain of it's own suffering'

Si O'Conor '99

 
posted by ※Sgian Dubh ※ at 5:04 PM | 0 comments