Saturday, May 26, 2007

A wild storm front building over the Outer Hebridean reaches. Stay in or go out? Stay in or go out?...hmm. Earth satellites zipping through the outer limits, meteorological proximity radar, data print outs, atmospheric science forecasting...Just use a window. Today I'll wear a hat...or not...as the case may be. The human race complicates itself unnesessarily all to often...
 
posted by ※Sgian Dubh ※ at 5:35 PM | 0 comments
Wednesday, May 09, 2007
The climbing out at this venue is wild, untouched, heathen, uneducated & generally harder than ourselves, surrounded by fantastic bouldering. Hauling gear in, overloaded against the swell can be arduous, porta-ledging in pitch black above the rolling thunder, unnerving as much as it is exciting. You brew up, waiting for mornings creep of first light & a days climbing. You drag with you, the stench of sea material, salt, dust & stone when you leave. Often a 50 mile jolly in the kayak or in the heavywieght canoe, lashed for high swell, will lead to the discovery & dedicated development of arenas like this. Or at least, traditionally, you do a wee rake of monster lines & pass it on locally, qiuetly, smiling at the mainstream fight for an inch of rock, as they swear at eachother, accuse who they can of this & that, & I guess, eventually implode.
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17ft Nordi launch into playful surf - just the ticket in between climbing hard gneissian projects
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I feel another Foula trip coming on. Getting Jim to raft us up with the maggie prawner at the bottom of Wester Hoevdi, the Kame & Nebbifeld & get as many kayak belays as we can out of new raids inside Breis Holm, & I'll take some Rum for Isobel & we'll haul gear, spending days like ants, clanking, inching up soaring 1000ft banded black verticalities, pierced only by the echoes of silence & seabirds bouncing back off eachother, vying for rule inside the ariel boundries. Out here, on the tops when you check the cuts in your fingers, when the sun bows down for evening, shadows are cast planetarilly, not by buildings or chimneys & mans architectural folly. Out here there is an extremely acute sense that you are climbing on the protuding bones of the earths personal geology. The very building blocks of hemispherical dna, a welded seam binding the polar caps, running deep below the streams of evolution.
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These places out here are like a reverse Gasherbrum, you can't accidently climb it, you purposefully navigate towards it with intention. There is a stillness, a peace within the action, woven with blinkered commitment. Only a handfull of us truly understand the full location, & it's already given way to some fierce climbing in a venue millions of years old, previously untouched by 20© man, & I'd venture, even the Neolith hord. One of the best outings so far is my own, ironically named, Òran a' Caochladh, crawling multi-pitch style across the main arch & equally, Finns steep testpiece, Luathaich, bounding up the outward leading arete. And they waffle on about Dumbarton being some amazing climbing ground...It's a plug in a rusting wasteground...you can keep it. I'd need 5 lifetimes just to develop all these outer cathedrals we've found in the Hebrides. Not a bad back garden to have overall. My sponsors are hoping I'll do it all in one I think...

The standard sea-taxi gear haul approach into E9 country - Cuilidh Domhan, Hebrides..agus, siud an t-eilean às an t-sealladh na phrìomh chomharr stiùiridh, cunnartach, do sheachaint gun fhaochadh.
 
posted by ※Sgian Dubh ※ at 3:59 PM | 0 comments
Monday, May 07, 2007
Another day, another new line. Arguably the smallest boulder problem on Lewis, -my giraffe- but hard & all coming down to an undercut sit-start in a finger slot & fair sized roof, topping out via the rounded wall above...errrm, on virtually no holds. A masterpiece of faith in friction, & I say small, but it's more to do with the recessed & illusionary optical greeting that first snarls at you... Asturias is a great power-puzzle that shouldn't be under-estimated. A ballet of grace whos performance involves a sumo wrestler & frailty merged, it fell back into that committing style I enjoy, of having no mat below. You would not want to scream backwards off the main wall.

Asturias
is also a perfectly executed solo of guitar by John Williams, burned into the soul of times preceding these recent days, these untimely events I can't undo...it casts us back toward that place in Spain where we had great weeks routing, soloing & laughing, &
Siurana, Baltzola & rolling back through the French serpentine alpine roads.

When there's nothing else you can do, you just keep on climbing, empowering yourself somehow, you simply keep on keeping on...



Asturias V11 - This one's for you man...
 
posted by ※Sgian Dubh ※ at 2:56 PM | 4 comments
Tuesday, May 01, 2007
Oh what have you done...

I woke up today to the news from his brother Micheal, that my long time friend Peder from Denmark, who moved to Austria to climb & boulder hard, & compete in moto-cross competition was involved in a fatal accident at the weekend. He had a furious crash & broke his neck in a moto-cross race for top placement. While paramedics were trying to get to him another competitor collided with his body, sending him 12mtrs down a ravine into boulders. When the rescue teams finally got to him there was no sign of life. Peder was a talent in both his disciplines, a great & compassionate guy with a lot of time for people, family & friends. I would use the words, replete, unfettered, honest, vivid & patient here
also, but they do little more than dust the surface. His moto, painted simply as 'Go4iT' on an old t-shirt, went with him everywhere. Along with Lars ala Nǿrsk, we were planning a trip onto Cerro Fitz Roy & Torres del Paine early next year...

I don't know what else to say right now, except that he will hopefully always remember this:
You are no one's worst enemy. Go bully someone. No more crazy lager fuelled nights, no more bright strong days, no more plans to boil excitedly over the cauldron of adventure...It's just gone & it's all to surreal & it aches. It's like the intricate pattern of fragile threads that hang in the morning light, keeping us closer, are being pulled away one by one, by something odourless, unseen & cowardly. Again, there is one less point on the compass now, by which I feel I can navigate this world, to harbour... A cardinal point has been scratched off by fortuity & the tool is useless. I will miss you dearly man...

Don't you know?
On the road between the homes of friends, grass does not grow.


9:30pm: I just got back from sitting at the edge of the ocean & I thought while I waited like a stone. What if I just put the sea kayak in the water & head out. Not to reach any destination, not to return from any journey, not to navigate any course but just to keep on going into nothingness, & see what's waiting for me out there, & let go & what does going home mean anyway anymore, what has it ever meant, in any sense of the word...

 
posted by ※Sgian Dubh ※ at 2:15 PM | 0 comments