Friday, March 30, 2007
Coming soon...An insight into how the exhibition of climbing photography is coming along - some never before seen photographs will be included. Moments on the Iconoclast line E9/10 & stills of a line I proposed as V15. I'm also toying with the idea of using one of the big gallery walls to project monchromatic films of the V13s & V14s onto. I guess it will be an attempt to mix still work with movement, creating an atmosphere of intensity of sorts. The still image of a crux sequence with the living reality of climbing it, going into the spaces. That's the approach rattling around in my head anyway. Hope it doesn't become to cheese & wine...I don't carry that sort of thing to well. under the hand of astute organizers. I'll hide in the corner if it is. Anyways, positive sounds have been made about The Stone-Works. Of course the new Coire lines will be included as well as a few classics, hence, The Coire & The Cold Water...

I'm heading back out there over the weekend. The locals & a few local climbers who have seen the beta compilation of movie cuts over a coffee or ten, seem to think it's an excellent idea for the islands - which is a relief. I don't come from a background heavily invested in photography - it's a recent born eye. A friend of a pal is heading out to climb Broad Peak also known as the Faichan Kangri this week, 8047m of panting then. We have our vices of differing size aye. His could see his body go missing on an endurance crux, mine will be slightly torn pulling on a small one..

Later this year there will I hope, be less discussion on the Hebridean climbing wall & more direct action. The funding is covered pretty much. The Lotto did wonders for the centre. The plan is settled on fully. Getting it fixed into the ample square meterage for the local kids is the big haul, which will involve, beyond architecture, more route setting, probably less iron work than Ruben has achieved in a lifetime -well hopefully-, & more bolts, although arguably not as controversial as the ones now glinting in the Coire. I've got this idea of putting classic lower hard grade boulder problems on it as well, replicating a few holds with jelly-molds, as I did to practise Fontainbleau lines back at home. ie: Pongo at Dumbarton. Venom Jag in the Coire. We'll see how it goes...how Bendcrete can facilitate the idea....The new php site will be up soon also.
 
posted by ※Sgian Dubh ※ at 2:45 PM | 0 comments
Thursday, March 15, 2007
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A wee unexpected blog break from working & filming my project on the Hebridean sea-cliffs. I for one, & I'm sure like many, never expected this news over a hot brew. So keep a thought with Allan Mullin... -The Man With Two Brains- as Jo George so eloquently put it, responsible for Scotlands hardest - not to mention, audacious winter routes - including The Steeple IX,9 - Demon Direct IX,9 - Bad Karma IX,8 - a committing solo of Rolling Thunder. The list of a man with total conviction, focus & outspoken views, infectiously alive, carries in truth, much further afield than Scotland. Worldwide in fact...But a man is more than a mere list of achievements & we are left with a void once filled with the presence of a great guy, who sadly took his own life on the 9th March 2007, aged 34...I once said of a proposed Lochnagar line: Aye, maybe if hell freezes over... His retort, mid sentence was: I'd take ma fookin axes...
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An irony as it turns out, or not, since he would go headfirst willingly into hell to climb his lines. Without going into any contributory factors or circumstances surrounding Allans death, -plenty will- his psychology had arguably remained closer to that same edge, than anyone had imagined. On the 9th March 2007, the climbing community lost a legend. A family also, & more importantly, lost a father, a son & a man who would one day be grandfather, story teller & cared for beyond climbing... Allan had lost touch with that potential maybe...maybe he felt the stupidity of men, the rapid onset acutely, the frustration & consequence of climbing scales without a background steeped in traditional ways. I don't really care. He always bowled back at the naysayers with forthright action, accuracy, & he always hit the mark...
It sends a stutter through my career either way, that he is no longer here. That the potential to be humiliated on winter routes by him...has gone, in a simple full stop. It turns my heart towards introspectiveness & somehow it enrages me at the same time, when I step freely over the threshold into a bright new silver day...He also owes me 2 quid...we'll let that one slide aye.

Those who are Freebirds, are never meant to be caged & gold days have again, ended in grey...
go well old son...go well...it's not nearly enough. It's another drunken lullaby...



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posted by ※Sgian Dubh ※ at 3:58 PM | 4 comments
Saturday, March 03, 2007
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Drifting into Umbral Shadow above a black ridge Cuillin of screaming teeth, the Peanut Catcher. That's some boulder aye. I've heard rumours of it being bigger than the Clach Ceann-Fine in the Coire....hmm, kids & drugs these days huh. I took these using reverse, negative-stacked imaging on DCCD through my hefty Schmidt-Cass, very low mag Baader onboard. It highlights the impact collision trails of dark dust, exactly as they settled, while the thresholds of local evolution were argued out... Negative imaging...it's like throwing Iodine at the sky aye...
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Well that's me away on the Uists, Eigg & Harris-Lewis islands again for a few more remote weeks climbing, bouldering & filming, until a guiding job on the 26th. A good few projects to go at through weather windows, & as ever, the mobile is on if anyone wants to hook up for some heavy duty crimping.

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posted by ※Sgian Dubh ※ at 1:39 AM | 2 comments