Thursday, July 28, 2005
There should be funky photos of the boulders in Coire Lagan, The Clisham & some of Dave MacLeods trip with Cubby up to Port Nis, soon showing at Scottish Climbs & a few are being readied for John at Stone Country, with an extra sprinkling of chillis. I've dropped some off in Dave Redpaths e-bunker, so if the wonders of interweb communications succeed, everyone can get a glimpse of how not to fall off the project, some all new It's Over pics, Eat Yourself Whole & Paper Tiger...aye the cruxs. A movie of Dot Matrix a v12 traverse in the excellent & local Hueco strewn sport cave outside of Portree, & a few more things when I get time back in the pit...

A mini sized me, eyeing up the wee roof sitter that tore Dave MacLeods pully. Clisham.
▲ - ▲
 
posted by ※Sgian Dubh ※ at 11:15 AM | 1 comments
Sunday, July 10, 2005
I've decided on a name for the new line on the green wall directly right of It's Over. Becuase of the history of all of us [us being, Mal, Watson, Murray, James, MacLeod, Tweedly ecetera, so on & so forth] having, at one time, all stared at it as blankly as it stared back, it was deemed 'stupid to even contemplate climbing'; so I've stuck with Paper Tiger - hard v13. Many said it was impossible & even I had serious doubts until tiny crimps evolved & a finger flake became a big high sloper after frenzied levering. Psychotic wire brushng also produced tiny edges that tip the balance in favour of mortal human resolve. The climbing is steep, fluid, natural, hard & extremely exciting, almost flowing when you get into the riddim of what it's asking you to do. With the holds almost laid out like a star constellation below a crescent moon when it's all chalked up, it becomes a disturbingly inviting piece of visual rock art, willing you to try, feasable & aligned for the wingspan & upward thrust. Anyways, what we all thought may incite the outrageous mutterings of V16, is merely a Paper Tiger...definately a growler, but not as frightening as first thought. Why did you all run away? I had a pointy stick at the ready! I feel this line will prove to be a truly important addition to bouldering in the Western Isles, it's simply that inspiring to do, & at a slightly more accessable grade than It's Over &, at the same time, below the v15/16 grade it dreamt itself to be; mooted in the eyes of silent watchers. If I could have a problem in my back garden to throw shapes on in the morning, a brew perched steaming in the grass, this would be it; but then the Coire is my back garden in a way. It just shows what a bit of cleaning & tenacity can achieve, whatever your level. Two down, one to go. All that remains in the cave is the full left to right link aye Pete, so bring the portable film studio. John should be in touch soon...If the full link traverse goes down this Autumn it's gonna be a Font black grade of epic proportions...Cogito ergo sum hombre, cogito ergo sum.
When you look up the meaning it says: The phrase paper tiger is a literal English translation of the Chinese phrase Zhi Laohu [紙老虎], meaning something which seems as threatening as a tiger, but is in all reality, relatively harmless.
paper tiger: n.
One that is seemingly dangerous and powerful but is in fact timid and weak: “They are paper tigers, weak and indecisive” [Frederick Forsyth].


Secondly, the name fits alot of those who's soul intention appears to be to spend their lives sparking off flames of useless rhetoric in climbing forums & pointless bitching matches, throwing un-centered witless insults at any positive achievment or conversation that happens by, & shite, at otherwise clean windows. Paper Tigers come in several forms for me, but the latter is the most ineffectual.
紙老虎
 
posted by ※Sgian Dubh ※ at 11:05 AM | 0 comments
I've commented before on grade logarithimics & grading styles, but this has been bugging me for some time, especially as I work towards the completion of the big Coire link-up.

Just how many V15 or V16 problems have a uk technical grade that comes close to equalling the V15 or V16 tag per move. And how many of these high end problems work on an accumalitive effect of several, sometimes even multiple cruxs linked by rests of physoclogical & physical lay-byes. Thus in cases such as Dai's extensively long [76moves] Wheel of Life, V16, or with the Longridge Traverse, [F8c but not a move harder than 6b] moves & cruxs need only to be in the uk 6b - uk 7a to achieve the mark.
But what of a 3 or 5 move
V15? An 8 move V16? Where does the uk technical standard rest? uk 6c+ ? 7a? 7b? or uk 8a or 8b?...
In the logarthimic scale, the movement of a pure crux sequence at the high end, I feel, should relate as closely as possible to the conclusive V-grade, rather than be a partly influencial factor on the overall difficulty.
With my new V15 in the Coire, Eat Yourself Whole, exactly the same philosophy has been applied. There are no lay-byes, no easy pull-on moves & no physcological rests, one because of it's short 10-12ft length & two becuase the rocks own formation simply doesn't allow it. With the Coire link-up project passing under It's Over the process is much the same, as it will be with the An-tSúil sport project, which will basically be a nasty V14/15 crux at 180° on 6 or so bolts, with f8a climbing either side, no rests throughout, hopefully when the drilling & bolting is complete. Klem apparently also works to the same philosophy, when he works new problems, & it makes absolute sense to me. Are we getting more high level problems with an undeveloped uk tech standard becuase people have found they can go further & further, or is it becuase people have upped their technical ability & can string 5 moves together, close to what V15 equates to in uk technical standards? These roaming 10 mile problems are the only way I see the fanciful notion of grade creep being exploited in all likelyhood, yet they only challenge physical duration not the technical edge.

Dave MacLeod has commented to me, on how he can -hang on V15s abroad but can't get off the floor on some of my top end problems-
& the fella is no slouch. I do focus my work though at this end [V11 up], towards equalizing the V-grade to the uk tech grade rather than hooking up cruxs in an outing you need food drops, a portaledge & a supply chopper on; & I stress, not becuase I flat-line on duration outings either. So maybe this is why. I'm trying to reduce grades by doing this, not increase them. Trying to strike a more realistic balance in both system arenas, to make sure that when you get on a V15, you better be prepared to climb at, or someway close to, the equivelent uk technical grade it suggests. I'm not saying both grades can be ultimately levelled, but pushing towards it will bring a clearer balance of what is expected when a high end V number is mooted. Just as you would expect uk 6c to be thin, expect V15 to be logarthimically, much thinner & with this understood, purer & harder than many European counterparts. Ideally then, if you cannot climb V14 or 15, none of the holds should be able to be hung as independants, nor should sections of sequences be possible.

I have various, almost scarily scientific scribblings knocking around, some screwed up like paper crysanthumums, which I'll tidy up soon & try to put into jpeg format for the web & post here to give you some suggestive pictorial [graphs] ideas of what I believe is possible & what is remedial. The past few years of focusing towards carrying the philosophy into active problems is progressively yielding more & more furious results.
∞ - ∞ - ∞ - ∞ - ∞ - ∞
 
posted by ※Sgian Dubh ※ at 7:52 AM | 1 comments
Saturday, July 09, 2005


Happy birthday Shitsville
I know it's a wee bit late but it's there. Aye, Bobs speech at the G8 was a doozy & glad you survived Jens farting onslaught in the tent. So I guess I won't make it Thursday either way, so - stay out of the fridge. x
The Boondock Saints ♠ & some ♠ Mouldy Soup ♠ to keep you going. There's even a chicken variation - girly heaven uhuh ♠
'S nad fhaisge tha a' chómhail a th' agam rium fhéin cho dlúth ri smior mo chridhe 's e falbh air binnean céin. Fhuair mi faoisgneadh ás a' chochall, a rinn cor mo réis maha...agus, Mar ruiysa tha m' irisleachd co-ionann rim uaill. Like a lightning strike sometimes aye, perfect screaming symmetry. Cha léir dhomh ni 's fhaisge. x
♠ ♠ ♠ ♠ ♠ ♠
Be a light unto yourself - Lord Buddha
♠ ♠ ♠ ♠ ♠ ♠
 
posted by ※Sgian Dubh ※ at 7:30 PM | 0 comments