Wednesday, November 30, 2005
Coming soon...Wide grip sequence training - Open handed regimes - The importance of torque - Feet-on climbing benefits - Free-training - Fingers or shoulders? - Face-on training - Climbing to fall, & a shed load more, including physcological approaches - breathing - positive affirmation & visualization. In more advanced stages I'll cover Slow & fast twitch responses - Visually inhibited movement - Dynamic snap reaction - Wieghted centre of balance - Economy of movement - Grip analysis & other stuff, but the whole thing will start with one of the most underated & important areas in bouldering, at any level - Learning to play. Uninhibited play & movement is one of the first things we learn in life, one of the first things we loose touch with as adults.. These approaches are based on my own tested succesful & failed paths, through experience of listening to the bodies own demands on itself over the years, & hopefully, may be beneficial to other boulderers trying to achieve results & escape their own personal plateaus & cul-de-sacs. There are to many training manuals out there that tell you, 10 of these are good, followed by 50 of these & so on - no matter what. They tell you training is a serious & diciplined, that laughter is out; yet a book doesn't deal with an individual one on one, nor does it recognise each individuals weaknesses & strengths & honestly see how they move in real time, with a conscience.
Training is not like that becuase individual climbers are not like that. I have tried to keep this way & philosophy as open as possible so no matter what your level, there is something to grasp & benefit from. I'll also attempt to provide some innovative & practical training ideas for those at home who don't have a woody or campus board of their own & immediate access to a crag. Working recently with a few local boulderers these past couple months, they have gone from v2 plateau average to v8. One has achieved V11 - but more importantly than that, his foot work is purposeful & immaculate, his abilty to reach from wide open positions is heaps improved & his overall grace & precision is excellent to watch in motion. It's not as if you're teaching them as such, I dislike the word teach, you're merely unlocking things they already possess but don't see. Anyway, it's in the pipeline...
Working the impossibly hard full-roof-link-up project of - Disintegration -rh- . V12 into blank ungraded void into V13... The bastard child of Satan itself - reborn.
▨ - ▨
