Sunday, August 14, 2005

If you had been here you would have noticed all was not right at The Storr. Part of the Skye Festival included this brilliant success. Herding stacks of people up the night path through gloom & wolven pines, to where the dark ominous walls that shroud The Storr, loom with a disturbingly claustrophic presence; stumbling chattering crowds were silenced by stunning bursts of light miasmics let free, to burn a photo-stamp of rampage & wonder, through their senses. Try bouldering while that's going on. We attempted a technicolour full girdle traverse of The Storr. Photos along soon of several psychedelic type climbers clinging on in the wind of a man made Arora Borialis. One of the local children fell off his perch on a small boulder, he was so transfixed I think he forgot which way up the world was...Indeed, I still have sore shoulders from half the village 9yr olds wanting a better see, ['gi us a betta see mister?!'....aye ok ya lil bastage] & aching arms from carrying a few down wrapped in downies. Each drive up there from Portree, it kept looking as if somebody had opened a portal to another dimension...Now if only Bon Scott & the boys had been thrashing it out on the top...
 
posted by ※Sgian Dubh ※ at 5:03 PM | 1 comments
Sunday, August 07, 2005

A swim at two dogs - Europaidh
▒≈▒≈▒
Oyéresu - the girl once said Eldila
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Barking underwater won't really help the situation old son
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Alone in the deltics, where things matter & high heels fear to tread
▒≈▒≈▒
 
posted by ※Sgian Dubh ※ at 7:35 PM | 1 comments
For those of you who missed it first time round on Scottish Climbs, here it is again. Read to the tune of Baz Luhrman's 1999 No 1 hit 'Wear Sunscreen'

Ψ - Ψ - Ψ
Ladles & Jellyspoons of the class of '99...Go...Climbing...
If I could offer you only one tip for the future, climbing would be it.
The long-term benefits of climbing have been widely documented by Patey, Whillans, Haston, whereas the rest of my advice has no basis more reliable than my own oscillating delirium.
I will dispense this advice now....

Enjoy the power and beauty of your forearms.
Oh, never mind.
You will not understand the power and beauty of your forearms until it has faded. But trust me, in 20 years, you'll look back at photos of yourself cranking on dinks and recall in a way you can't grasp now, how much power-endurance you had and how fabulous it really was.
You are NOT as weak as you imagine.
Don't worry about when the next sunny day is coming.
Or worry, but know that worrying is as effective as trying to out boulder Klem Loskot. The real troubles in your life are apt to be things that never crossed your climbing trivia mind, like overdrafts and laundry.
Do one thing every day that scares you.
Solo.
Be reckless when belaying other people.
Don't put up with people who are reckless when belaying you.
Train.
Don't waste your time on spouses.
Sometimes you're up, sometimes you're down.
The race is long, but in the end it's only against gravity.
Exaggerate you're achievements.
Ignore the achievements of others.
If you don't succeed in getting strong, take steroids.
Keep your old rock boots.
Throw away your old Whillans harness.
Waffle.
Don't feel guilty if you don't know when you might start wearing ankle warmers.
The strongest people I know, didn't know at 22 when they would start.
Most of the most inersesting 40-year-olds I know now have.
Buy plenty of cams. Don't use hexes.
They'll only weigh you down on the crux, or get caught in the style at Tremadog.
Maybe you'll onsight, maybe you won't.
Maybe you'll nick someone elses project, maybe you won't.
Maybe you'll flash 8a at 40, maybe you'll eat a Big Jim at Pete Eat's at your 75th Climbing Club Reunion.
Whatever you do, make sure you eat plenty of malt loaf.
Your choices are always risky.
Unlike everybody else's.
Use someone else's body.
Stand on their shoulder to clip the first runner.
Don't be afraid of ethics or of what the conservationists might think.
It's probably the only way you'll ever climb the route anyway.
Dance.
Even if you have nowhere to do it but on a narrow ledge half way up El Cap.
Write bad directions, especially for Climbers Club guide books.
Do not read beauty magazines, they will only make you feel horny, read...Climber instead.
Get to know your parents. You never know when you'll have to persuade them to let you build a board in their cellar.
Be nice to your climbing wall staff. They are your best link to getting strong and the people most likely to get you cheap kit and holds in the future.
Understand, that favourite climbing tights come and go, but for a precious few, you should incinerate.
Work hard to bridge the gaps in power and endurance, because the older you get, the harder it will be to crank and crimp like you did when you were young.
Live in Sheffield once, but leave before you begin to enjoy Peak Limestone.
Live with Dave Cuthbertson once, but leave before your forearms mutate.
Dyno.
Accept certain inalienable truths:
Gear prices will rise.
Midges will prevail in Scotland.
You too will develop a preference for bumbling.
And when you do, you'll fantasize that when you were young, prices were reasonable, midges were friendly and bumbling was always the way.
Respect old gippers in red socks, they probably climb harder than you anyway.
Dont expect a belay off a Frenchman.
Maybe you'll have a huge rack.
Maybe you'll have your own luxury bouldering mat.
But you never know when either one might stolen from your van in Dumbarton.
Don't on sight too many pre 1950 Highland VSs or by the time you're 25 you may not be around.
Be careful whose beta you listen to, but be patient with those who supply it.
Beta is a form of sand-bagging past routes.
Dispensing it is a way of fishing the good bits from the route, poffing the horrendous sloper memories from the past, getting a glint in the eye & declaring the route a path whilst sitting back to watch your mates struggling & cursing you.

But trust me I'm a climber.
Ψ - Ψ - Ψ
 
posted by ※Sgian Dubh ※ at 4:21 PM | 0 comments
Could it be that this old representation of a huge balanced bloc has actually been found in The Clisham Pass. Maybe it's a clone, but either way, it's worryingly alike & pretty much backs up the detail of the image above...uncanny. I don't have enough researched history on this etching as yet, but stay tuned for a comparable digi shot. For now though, the collosus will remain free from attention. Back on the hillsides of Harris with the rye grass & mistral winds, there's plenty to go at & without these vast hurled rocks, without the home seas, the flap of tent fabric, peaty mud between the toes & seeing old weathered faces exactly where you left them, I think I'd loose the plot. The long track home from chaos, was overridden with a fixed picture of old Shanks, standing on the loch, a creel in one hand, snot pouring from whichever of his nostrils was windward, a half bottle of Trawler tucked in his oil skin pocket...To see it for real, would make the world exactly how it was before somehow, & he was there, as regular as a standing stone, although somewhat more wobbly, calling me boy. Nothing is now broken or torn away. It's funny aye, how we each have markers by which we judge the worlds safety. Although some would argue that having Shanks as a safety marker is hardly testiment to personal sanity, yet he is exactly that. This week is about focused work on that huge leaning boulder, immediately left of the roadside when you drive down-the-way. Drop in, have a tug on it. Free burgers to the man who can beat me to the steep wall right of the arete!
Three new problems here so far, the best of these being the technical & steep downhill wall of, Back in Black -v12, while the Apophis project gets closer everytime I attempt to fight being unceremoniously dumped groundward from it's jaws without a second glance.

Ħ - Ħ
 
posted by ※Sgian Dubh ※ at 1:26 AM | 0 comments
Friday, August 05, 2005
Superb & informative. Now we know, there is little doubt as to what the Al Qaida Training Manual is based on. Printed off copies are being unearthed on a daily basis all over the planet as further lightning intelligence raids take place.
Doc:2399020
Oh, &...Al Qaida means The Base or Foundation in translation, which comes from Qaa`ida harbiyya [literally meaning: war base] which is a base of operations under junde [soldiers] control. It comes from the verb qa`ad, which means: to sit.....just in case anyone couldn't sleep with out knowing. If you ask nice I could even type it all in Arabic. Snort.
 
posted by ※Sgian Dubh ※ at 4:34 PM | 0 comments
Wednesday, August 03, 2005
Having returned from a feverishly swift time in the chaotic massifs of our cities [to visit a long lost pal or three of course], through a few rare quiet moments, wandering around, I was struck by the amount of signs deftly bolted to available walls in the urban sprawl, by the local governing councils. No Ball Games, Keep Off The Grass...What could they possibly mean? Are the local councils actively denying that sport & aerobic pastimes are good for the youth? That blades of grass & decadent red brick walls are far more worthy of conservation than inspired active youngsters? You'd think there would be more pressing issues given recent events...Could I really see within the signs, an invisible continution of small print saying:

No Ball Games, Keep Of The Grass, don't come out here enjoying yourself, stay at home, get a scag habit, deal a bit more, mug a pensioner of your choice, buy more illegal firearms, set arson, interact with playstations & eat chips, start a Jihad, but don't walk on our grass & smile you bastas, don't kick your ball & follow your dreams & throw yourselves around in the sunshine with unparralleled expression, we need an unmotivated youth to keep our crime rates up & in turn gain us more funding for corrupt overspending. So stop it for gods sake!

Surely then, they meant stay on the grass. [Well some go by fire & some by their own hand aye].


Needless to say one of the signs got broke....accidently...& I have a nice No Ball Games sign for the wall in my pit back on Skye where it's better served above the toilet rather than in the shinty field. Maybe I'll donate it to the pottery & glass shop in the village, or even place it on top of the In-Pin. The humour would go down well. It's good to get back anyways, to see the Isles bar, door open wide, the free fearless day to day of life on an upbeat island rythmn. Onwards to the Coire, then Clisham & Lewis, now where are my 5-10s & where was I with the boulder & sport project before being so ubruptly interrupted.....

Or should that be truncated...

Oh, & on a happy note, only 142 days to get that Christmas shopping in...just in case anyone was wondering. So, 130 days before the tv is bizzarly plagued with 'new sofa deals'' from Sale advertisers. [apparently they believe every sofa in the world breaks or vanishes one night before January 1st?] In that case, I'm off to the remotest corner of Uist to sit on a worn comfy bean bag, beside a turf fire with the dog & a dram [coming Shitsville?] before it starts & until it all passes, occasionaly only creeping out to climb something steep...Enjoy.

 
posted by ※Sgian Dubh ※ at 10:23 PM | 1 comments