₪ Si M'Cøngaile' ₪

Friday, June 30, 2006

Rainmaker agus Come Out Fighting- V11/8a. Rainmaker [calg-dhíreach] - Tha mi am chadal, na duisgibh mi, V12/ 8a+ - An Cliseam, Na Hearadh

'Arguably the best boulder-line to have been climbed in the Clisham so far'...agus mura dèan thu an obair, chan fhaigh thu duais. Nan robh thu sàmhach chluinneadh tu mi, agus, nam b' e an-diugh an-dè, cha bhitheadh tu cho gòrach uhuh...

Another two problems for DaveMac to fail on & then he can deny all my V12s & win again...errr...[nb: Despite putting my mobile number up as The Climb Line in addition to my email, on this trip I heard zero from zero other climbers.]

posted by ※Sgian Dubh ※ at 11:14 PM | 0 comments

†raigh naBerigh

Wednesday, June 28, 2006

The cruxy & stoical hung maxillary lateral cave incisors, as promised below...

Unlocking sequences on one of the deceptively steep & gnarly Harris projects - or any project, can be like trying to ride a wild horse into submission. As it happens, this wild horse is about V13 so far...Yesterday I -the tentative jockey- missed the top sloper by the skin of my teeth...

[nb: Despite putting my mobile number up as The Climb Line in addition to my email, on this trip I heard zero from zero other climbers.]

posted by ※Sgian Dubh ※ at 1:45 AM | 0 comments

PrΦgress..

Tuesday, June 13, 2006

A book for the soul

update 26-june: A good read while laying on the Camas Uig sands, letting skin & body parts heal. The project is about to fall & we're definately heading for a new V13 at Traigh na Berigh & the Harris border, having eventually resorting to poking off razor sharp grains from a crucial half-tip mono on the crux with the van keys... The brilliant cave line of stoical hung maxillary lateral incisors, which exhibits similarities to Evil Twin, went at a similar V12, & a stac more awesome new lines, with an occasional highball freakshow, have gone at V5 to V9 with 6 new E-trad lines so far, one being heaps hefty scary. Those are the climbs in a numerical sense, & all this in a totally new venue I might add. I love the frictionless red quartz out this way. It's like raw meat wrapped in a cling-film skin. A more in depth update will follow with a few wee photies soon. When I woke up this morning it hurt to breathe deep, having torn away some rib soft tissue, fighting the hard fight. I'm gonna get back to ma book, heal for a day & watch the surf-kiters play.

Call the climb-line if you like. I'm always open to turning it into a gathering. Just try not to ring when I'm on the crux of something scary aye: 07981215915

There is a streak of madness in these men & women whose eyes are fixed on the stars, but it is a divine madness - Wilfrid Noyce

posted by ※Sgian Dubh ※ at 4:48 PM | 4 comments

Monday, June 05, 2006

Idiotically tiny edges - a wild overhanging arete - a potential screamer from hell -no placeable pro - & suddenly, this urge to break-dance washes over you. Do you pause briefly to humour the closet Travolta within or finish climbing the project first?

I remembered these words not far from the top:

Dance- Even if you have nowhere else to do it but on a narrow ledge halfway up El-Cap

I carried on teetering, friable edge after friable edge. One partially collapsed, supressing my urge to giggle prematurely at clearing the last crux sequence. The rest was crimp into flag into crimp into lift -smooth to the ledge. The summit dance won't be making it into the movie...My closet Travolta vented years of pent up dance aggression. It was a shambles in full view. Gone was the fluid grace under vertical pressure of a boy ballerina, crimp gymnast- enter a club heeled lunatic trying to escape a swarm of invisible bees...I was, for just a fleeting moment, Bernhard Manning on a pogo-stick.

E.....

[nb: Despite putting my mobile number up as The Climb Line in addition to my email, on this trip I heard zero from zero other climbers.]

posted by ※Sgian Dubh ※ at 3:41 AM | 4 comments