Tuesday, June 13, 2006
A book for the soul
update 26-june: A good read while laying on the Camas Uig sands, letting skin & body parts heal. The project is about to fall & we're definately heading for a new V13 at Traigh na Berigh & the Harris border, having eventually resorting to poking off razor sharp grains from a crucial half-tip mono on the crux with the van keys... The brilliant cave line of stoical hung maxillary lateral incisors, which exhibits similarities to Evil Twin, went at a similar V12, & a stac more awesome new lines, with an occasional highball freakshow, have gone at V5 to V9 with 6 new E-trad lines so far, one being heaps hefty scary. Those are the climbs in a numerical sense, & all this in a totally new venue I might add. I love the frictionless red quartz out this way. It's like raw meat wrapped in a cling-film skin. A more in depth update will follow with a few wee photies soon. When I woke up this morning it hurt to breathe deep, having torn away some rib soft tissue, fighting the hard fight. I'm gonna get back to ma book, heal for a day & watch the surf-kiters play.
Call the climb-line if you like. I'm always open to turning it into a gathering. Just try not to ring when I'm on the crux of something scary aye: 07981215915
There is a streak of madness in these men & women whose eyes are fixed on the stars, but it is a divine madness - Wilfrid Noyce
 
posted by ※Sgian Dubh ※ at 4:48 PM |


4 Comments:


At 6/14/2006 10:05 AM, Blogger John Hunter↓

Si

What is the grade span of this new area? Id be keen to have a look sometime, altho were talking lower V, rather then V teens that you've probably worked.

Tried to add the New routes at Neist to the Scottish Climbs Wiki and Database, gave up in the end, it didnt seem to work.

Have a good climb when you get out and remember lurking behind each corner, could be what your looking for.

J

 

At 6/14/2006 7:30 PM, Blogger ※Sgian Dubh ※↓

Hmm...everything from V7 - V12 J. Thus far the main range of grades are at the hard end but thats not becuase everythings hard, it's just where I prefer working. I always tend to leave sheds of lower ended problems, no matter how awesome they may look, to somebody whos 'fight level' it suits, becuase doing a problem at your own edge is always more satisfying than just gobbling up new ground. Plenty of quality lines for you & others to go at. Up for a Colonsay & Eigg raid?...

Is Scottish Climbs still there? Havn't seen it, or thought about it in ages. I think the last thing I posted was about 'Bolts on the Cioch' & even then, I didn't read the 3 or 4 pages it seemed to turn into. To be honest, I thought that by now, SC had maybe got sucked up into the swirling vortex of Norrie being on the verge of disappearing up his own online persona...
The wiki should be a nice level-headed & un-biased utility as well aye...I doubt. Any new climbs, boulders, sport, will get in the smcj's ecetera anyway J, which is more important than it being on a random website.

''lurking behind each corner, could be what your looking for''

Aye...a random Watson with a grigi, a clip-stick & a packed lunch, that would be superb...I will report back from the sunny coral sands, clear sea & black strewn boulders shortly...

 

At 6/15/2006 9:05 AM, Blogger John Hunter↓

Morning, Colonsay and Eigg do sound worthwhile, have you been? any data on what might be there?

Will check calender, but likely to be august on before can leave this island, altho am in Alps in July.

It seems to cost a fortune to get to these islands, why? I guess people must make a profit. I need a boat.

Around my next corner is more work than I can handle, I just want to laze about in the sun, fall of some easy problem

Climbing at your own fight level is a good point, I guess thats where I get most of my pay from climbing, altho just being out pays my soul a lot.

 

At 6/26/2006 2:32 PM, Blogger John Hunter↓

Robin Smith eh... tough lad that one, they breed em hard up here u know

Will have to get my head in that book one day, too many books on early days exploring to be had until then, did you know people were once explorers in the Alps? I love to read of when things were new, when the world wasnt mapped to such a detail that I can type in a few words and see the flowers in my garden from space.

The Neist stuff is up on the Squeeky http://wiki.scottishclimbs.com/wiki/Neist_Point

Went lookin at boulders at the weekend on Ben Avon, some lines and some problems there, but I wasnt the man to caress them this weekend, its a multi day thing, energy and skin would need to be spent on these pebbles