Saturday, October 15, 2005
And now for something completely dangerous - a man with 5 chalk bags...nope, actually, I've just managed to climb the huge hanging shard of black gneiss wedged solidly between Grip Crisis rh & the improbable roof. What a beast! A jump start from steep sea walls above boulders up into a rack of slopers then the 30ft shard direct with a furious struggle above the nastiest deckout. This is an awesome line I wierdly couldn't muster the nerve for last year. Dave MacLeod will know the meteoric insertion I'm on about, all to well. Again, it's one of those lines that invades your dreams at night & calls to you through the day. It dances in vicious storms, circling as if a wild banshee above prospecting climbers, willing them into a spiral of uncertain outcome & soul deluge. The name alines it perfectly, into a high v-grade or a bold lead; & thrown to the wind like a fist of sand, it scatters all over the ascent, drowning itself inside a torrent of uncontrived, raging movement. The black & white photos are stonking....
We're heading further South later, to a new location not far from Traigh na Berigh with independant beach super size boulders, but first, a stomp across the Lewis moorland with the dug & the silence...maybe a bit of Natasha Atlas on the mp3 gadget.
For those of you who don't generally climb v9 [or v13 for that matter] there are some excellent mantel problems, 5 font 6 -7 s & one of the best Font 7bs ever into the diamond shaped feature & a wacky traverse - all in the same area. That's a quality shopping trip then!
posted by ※Sgian Dubh ※ at 3:07 PM | 
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