Sunday, August 27, 2006

Looking back down onto The Phial - E7, with Kilt & Rubha Hunish across the reeks. The Phial is the presiding elder over scampering V-grades & awesome bouldered talus, dragged & clattering through the crevassed floor of mighty Cairn Liath. Just as with Fontainebleau, where a V13 can co-exist beside a V0, you can end up with an E7 next-door to a VDiff on the same fin of rock at Carn Liath, maybe a direct on a meander, or a new line variant or blank space filled, without anything becoming contrived, controversial or eliminate. There is room for it all & still loads of gaping blank columnar climbing be tamed. This place is also home to an untouched face but for one climb, the critical, wild & audacious line of Iconoclast - E9/10, & with every move verging on a state of crisis, it will remain Skye's hardest route by far, for some time to come. The line has become referred to in certain localized bletherings as 'the reluctant E10'...since I have so far refused to grade it into the silly club, despite a few stubborn petitions, or with more wit, it gets called the Ronseal Arete. Either way, a leader fall would kill you...no second chances. I should post up the black & chrome sequence shots of red-point leading Iconoclast one day...They drip with commitment, fear & inspiration, like the guarded secrets we have kept under the radar, inside the amphitheatres of Carn Liath itself. For the majority of climbers, the photo above will be the first online glimse they have had into the internal & precipitous abyss of Carn Liath..If Wilson Moir's excellent route Lunatic Fringe, is the leafy arboured driveway to insanity, Iconoclast is banging on the doors of the nuthouse asking to be let in...

A couple of E9 repeats are on the cards for the future...maybe Achemine or Hold Fast in 2007 before my joints pack in completely.

Smcj updates of all lines old & new are afoot...Lee is busy putting the topo together with James & I'm away to point Niall McNair & Emma in the direction of an untouched Traigh na Berigh gem of a sea-cliff, if I can find them & the rain holds off. If not, a bit of wet-suit cliff plummeting might be on the menu...

 
posted by ※Sgian Dubh ※ at 3:14 PM |


4 Comments:


At 8/28/2006 8:48 AM, Blogger John Hunter↓

Good effort lad! been busy? not many words from you.

I crashed the car into a tree, the more painful method of seeinf whats over a fence, So climbing is off for a few more weeks, its the ribs you see.

Not heard from Emery for ages, need to get him on rock so can laff, but then that may hurt ribs again

See the car pic on my blog.

 

At 8/29/2006 12:34 PM, Blogger ※Sgian Dubh ※↓

Ohno, not the roller-skate! Bit of tape on the wing mirror & a few whacks with a lump hammer, that would make an 'A' class Hebridean jolly machine!

 

At 8/29/2006 12:59 PM, Blogger John Hunter↓

Well its dead, 11.5k to fix, so not doing. Bought a much more practical Mini Cooper, plenty of room for mats!

Dont you ride horse and cart there?

Ribs just dont wanna heal, Whisky and V13 might be the way!

Missus off on Lewis this week for work, bugger, to be paid to be out there!!

 

At 8/30/2006 12:21 AM, Blogger ※Sgian Dubh ※↓

Nah, whisky is all well & fine for pain relief old son & distilling a mind full of firing neurons, & despite there being little you can do for cracked ribs, I'd stay away from compression wraps [as well as the dram], which to my mind at least, are more constrictive to healing than helpful. You should keep the muscle tissue strong & do lots of rotation deep breath exercises & gentle stretches. Keep some N-4-hydroxyphenyl acetamide or aspirin handy, take food like medicine, & try some hot damp towels. No crimping on dinks, monster dynos or Yosemite big walling! I've never wrapped a broken rib yet...mind you, I've walked home oblivious on a leg fracture before...Ice climbing in a cast would have been funny, but the Corrieshalloch Gorge was falling apart as well around that time...

Oh & only read crap jokes...so Larson/Farside is out for a month or two aye. Somebody should also tell Emery the Loverman that luuurv exercises in a Lankyshire harem don't necessarily improve climbing ability...unless he's been clinging on underneath all this time...

& don't drink V13 - drink Red Wing - It Gives You Balls.