Tuesday, July 04, 2006
A new horribly sobering arete.
This bampot arete weighs in around f8b. The climbing is bouldery & powerful. The holds are frighteningly poor, as is the one piece of gear in the roof below. So poor in fact, that to fiddle about, inverted, trying to make it stick, is in itself, an exercise of futlile dilema when more crux waits above. If you can get it to bite, it's E8 & might take a gentle fall. Remember the gear in If 6 was 9?...When I squeezed Davey Birkett about that sawn & glued peg, he said it might hurt to fall off above it. The cam in An Ataireachd Ard is slightly safer, slighty easier to sort, & there's no wire in the top....but it's not E9. This one of many soaring lines between An Cliseam & Sron Ulladale waiting for climbers with bones of stone, roots of veins coarsing under dirty skin & pilon wires for tendons. There are no second chances taking a screamer off here aye & I have already described this arete as: slightly more dangerous than running with scissors - totally bampot in fact. Well, Na Hearadh has been great as usual, & since I literally have no skin left, I'm going nip home across the Minch, rest, & kick the ball for the dog, who has tanned his nose a wonderful shade of pink... A full write-up soon.
Would you let this brawling Guga fisherman belay you on a death route?... I'd leap off Rubha Robhanais with the fellow hoodlum to be honest...nb: Despite putting my mobile number up as The Climb Line on this trip I heard zero from zero other climbers.
posted by ※Sgian Dubh ※ at 10:43 PM | 
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